I Was Skeptical About a Bordeaux River Cruise, So I Sailed It. Here's My Honest Review.

Honestly? It was okay. It would not be my personal first choice for a river cruise. But for the right person, this week is fantastic, and I can tell you exactly who that person is.

"There is less sailing time than on other rivers." True. The longest real stretch of sailing was Bordeaux to Libourne, and that afternoon was lovely, perfect weather on the top deck. After that, the ship stays within about an hour or an hour and a half of Bordeaux all week. I missed the scenic sailing I have had on other rivers.

"The captain said the river isn't long enough for a seven night cruise." An advisor friend told me that before I left, and I wondered if Viking would handle it better. My honest read is that she was right, and so was the captain. This is a wonderful way to really explore one area. You just don't travel far. If you want Germany, Austria, and Hungary in one week, this is not that trip.

"The water is muddy." It is. The rivers here are tidal, so the water is brown, closer to cappuccino than to the postcard you might be picturing. The upside is real, though. Tidal rivers don't have the low water problems that disrupt summer sailings elsewhere in Europe.

"Some docks are industrial, and ships double dock." I warned you about this one, and I didn't see either happen on my sailing. Good news, and one less thing to worry about.

For a wine lover, yes. Nearly every town on this itinerary is a winery visit plus a local tour. Libourne, Bourg and Blaye, Pauillac and the Médoc, Cadillac and Sauternes.

I will be honest with you. By the end of the week, I was kind of over wineries. If you are not genuinely into wine, you will hit that wall sooner than I did.

The one day that breaks the pattern is Arcachon. I skipped it to rest and work, and I'm a little sad about that, because the guests who went told me at dinner it was by far their favorite day. Fresh oysters, a seafood lunch with wine, and no winery. If you are traveling with someone who isn't a wine person, that is their day.

In August I wrote that none of the downsides would matter if you were standing in Saint-Émilion by ten in the morning. Here is what actually happened.

Both of Viking's Saint-Émilion excursions sold out. Even with a travel advisor on board, I couldn't get on them.

So we found another way in. Melissa, the friend I traveled with, booked an outside motorcycle and sidecar tour that picked us up across from the ship on Saturday afternoon. About forty-five minutes to an hour through the vineyards, taking turns in the sidecar. Our first stop was a private winery, a tour for just the two of us. We mentioned red isn't really our favorite, and the host found us a white we both loved. That is where we bought our bottles to bring home.

Two lessons. Book your key excursions the day booking opens. And when the ship's tour sells out, there is almost always another way to get where you want to go. Knowing how to find it is part of what I do.

The dinner at Château Kirwan in Margaux was my favorite night of the week. The château has no kitchen, so Viking prepared everything on the ship and carried it in, and the Viking staff served the whole dinner. The next day they showed us a photo of the normally empty room and how they set it all up. The wines were all Château Kirwan, including the 2019, and they were better than anything poured on board.

The ship was almost full, about 185 guests. The crowd was well traveled, many of them loyal Viking guests, and I was one of the youngest on board. That loyalty makes sense once you're there. Viking's ships are built to look and feel the same, so returning guests feel like they're coming home.

I have now sailed Avalon, Emerald, and Viking, and I get asked which is best all the time. My honest answer is that they fit different travelers. A few things I noticed: on Viking, the included wine at dinner is the house white, red, and rosé, and you can upgrade with the Silver Spirits beverage package. Avalon rotates regional wines and includes a cocktail hour. Which one fits you depends on what you want the week to feel like, and that is a conversation, not a ranking.

Fly into Paris and take the train down to Bordeaux. A lot of guests on my sailing flew straight in and didn't realize the train was an option. Arrive a day early. If your room isn't ready on embarkation day, spend a couple of hours at the Cité du Vin. It's very close to the ship, interactive even if you're not a wine person, and your ticket includes a glass on the rooftop.

Decide on your transfer ahead of time. Our Uber from the ship to the train station was about 15 to 20 dollars. Viking's private transfer was 50 euros. If you skip the transfer, plan on handling your own bags at the very end.

This is a great fit if:

• You genuinely love wine and want to go deep on one region
• You prefer a slower pace and like unpacking once
• You can only travel in summer and don't want to worry about low water
• You have already done a river cruise or two

I would steer you somewhere else if:

• This is your first river cruise
• You want to see several countries in one trip
• The sailing itself is the part you're looking forward to
• You're an active traveler (there were no bikes on board, and the e-bike excursions sold out)

For most first-timers, I would still lean toward the Rhine or the Danube. Bordeaux will be there for trip number two, and you'll appreciate it more.

That is why I go. Not for the photos. So that when you sit down with me, whether you're in Berks County, Schuylkill County, the Lehigh Valley, or anywhere else, the answer comes from somewhere real.